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2015年10月4日星期日

引言圖片-住了會發抖腿軟的峭壁旅社全世界最令人雙腳發麻的旅館就在這裡!位於祕魯境內庫斯科的峭壁旅社,不僅給你高空俯瞰視野美景,更有著極為嚇人的交通路程,因為旅客必須先攀爬一大段恐怖懸崖峭壁,才能抵達峭壁旅社,體力不夠好、心臟不夠大顆的人,千萬別輕易嘗試啊!
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因為坐落於陡峭山壁,峭壁旅社的建築並非傳統鋼筋水泥打造,而是由木材、鋁合金與聚碳酸酯等輕量高強度素材建造而成,雖然不需擔心強度,但初次登上峭壁旅社的旅客,想必心裡一樣還是會覺得毛毛的。
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入住峭壁旅社之後,如果順利克服心裡的懼高恐懼,就可以享受離地122公尺的美麗風景,或在星空與車流之間用晚餐,無論日夜都有非常震撼的視覺景緻,喜歡野營的網友,一生一定要找機會體驗一次。另外,想完整體驗峭壁風情,不妨一早在屋頂吹吹風享用早餐,前提是如果懼高症已經不藥而癒的話。
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峭壁旅社退房方式也相當特別,不是說還完房卡就可以走出大門,而是要以吊索滑降方式,在峭壁與峭壁之間以Z字型來回多次,才能平安返抵地面,實在讓懼高症患者大喊吃不消。
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祕魯峭壁旅社導覽影片
住了會腳軟的峭壁酒店
下午7:05:00

住了會腳軟的峭壁酒店

2015年1月30日星期五



By Eric J. Hörst

I'm commonly asked what is the best training program or exercise for climbers, and I'm usually quick to answer 「it depends.」 This always leads me into a deeper conversation, but the executive summary is usually that 「the best training program for you is likely one you aren't doing!」
While many climbers I work with believe whole-heartedly that they are already on track with their training, a short Q & A with them usually reveals a less-than-perfect program and, in some cases, training that is largely a waste of time. Don't get me wrong, I meet a lot of hard-working climbers who really do take their training seriously—many pride themselves on always leaving the gym in a physically destroyed state. However, just because your training yields a crazy pump or makes you feel like a power-mongering bad ass, doesn't mean that it's effective. (For example, doing a CrossFit 「workout of the day」 would destroy most climbers, but it's not an effective training program for sport climbing.)
Enter sports science and the principles of overload and periodization, which state that an effective training program must be progressive and variable in nature. Equally important is the principle of individualization—a commandment that dictates the importance of training in a way that targets your limiting constraints relative to your current project or goal.
While I can't detail a personalized program in this short article—there is no one-program-fits-all for climbers—I will provide some general guidelines, tips, and a few exercises that will empower you to train more effectively. If you are really serious about getting it right, I encourage you to hire a veteran climbing coach or educate yourself so that you can embark on an intelligent self-directed program. (Tip: The three must-read books to study are Gimme Kraft, the Anderson brother's Rock Climber's Training Manual, and Training for Climbing, by yours truly.)
Is your Training On-route or Off-route?
Okay then, let's first suss out the effectiveness of your current training program. Your energy is being somewhat wasted with 「off-route」 training if you are: 1.) going to the gym and doing the same workout as previous months,  2.) training by way of another climber's program (copying what they are doing), 3.) training inconsistently (missing workouts or entire weeks of training), or 4.) going to the gym and 「climbing until you get a sick pump and can't climb anymore」 (I hear this one all the time).

How to Accurately Target Your Training
Sharpening your training aim begins by identifying your near-term climbing goal (is it bouldering, sport climbing, or multipitch related) and then correctly assessing your limiting constraints with regard to this goal. What's really holding you back? Is it maximum grip strength, pulling power, or forearm strength-endurance? Or, is it something more covert like poor climbing economy, fear, or perhaps core strength?
Something else to consider is your injury history and whether there are any underlying muscle imbalances or behaviors (i.e. under-resting, over-drinking, poor nutrition or sleep habits, etc.) that are holding you back. In designing a program, strive to improve on all things that affect your climbing, not just the time spent physically training. Peak performers in sport get all the puzzle pieces in the right place.
Having identified your climbing goal and related limiting constraints, cast-off on a dedicated 4- to 6-week training program that stays on-route (targeting your weaknesses) with every single workout. Do this consistently, three days per week, and you will soon break through your performance plateau.
What if you can't identify any glaring weakness or limiting constraint? The default training focus, then, is simply to 「get stronger.」 While improving grip strength is always paramount, you will most benefit from more comprehensive strength gains that includes your lock-off, shoulders, core, and posterior chain muscles (overlooked by most climbers).

With this goal in mind, I'll leave you with five important strength-training exercises. Don't just do one or two of these—coach Hörst instructs you to do all five!

1.      Weighted Fingerboard Hangs – The hangboard is the single most effective training tool, yet so many climbers fail to properly use it (a few fingertip hangs at the end of your climbing session will have little benefit). Conversely, doing two or three hangboard sessions per week will gift most climbers with a noticeable bump in crimp strength in as little as two to four weeks. Here's how to increase your maximum crimp strength. Using an edge (depth between ½」 - ¾」) do three 7- to 10-second hangs each followed by just 50 to 53 seconds of rest (i.e. each hang-rest couplet is exactly one minute). These hangs must be near-maximal intensity, so you'll likely need to wear a weight belt (or hang weights from your harness) in order to limit each hang to just 10 grueling seconds. Use only the half-crimp grip (no thumb lock) and do three sets of three hangs with a three-minute rest between each set.

2.      Weight Pull-ups (with top lock-off) – Doing high-rep sets of pull-ups will build endurance, but beyond a point it won't make you stronger. If you can do 15 solid bodyweight pull-ups, you should begin adding weight. Hang weights from a dip belt or harness, or use a weight vest. Add enough weight to limit you to just 5 to 8 reps, and be sure to hold a two-second lock-off at the top of each pull-up. Do three to five sets with weight, always beginning with at least one bodyweight warm-up set.

3.      Dip – My favorite push muscle exercise, and a must-do for climbers. Begin by doing them on parallel bars and graduate to dipping on rings (much harder). Do 3 sets of 8 to 15 reps—a full rep begins at a 90-degree elbow bend (no lower) and ends in the straight-arm position. Strong climbers will need to add weight to maintain the proper rep range.

4.      Windshield Wipers (aka. Ice Cream Makers) – Climbers do all kinds of crunches and planks in the name of anterior core and oblique training. If you are strong at these, it's time to add Windshield Wipers to your routine—these will hammer your entire core, as well as work the shoulders and arms in a very good way. Here's how to do them: Grabbing a bar palms away, pull-up to a 90-degree elbow bend, then lean your head and shoulders back while lifting your legs and bending at the hips to gain a 「V」-shaped body position (with your ankles a foot or two beyond the bar). Now hold this position and rotate your hips left and right (swinging your legs like a windshield wiper) about 45-degrees each side of the starting position. Do three sets of 6 to 12 reps (hard) with a three-minute rest between sets.

5.      Pistol Squat (or free weight squat or deadlift) – You may be surprised to learn that the muscles of the posterior chain (hamstrings, glutes, spinal erectors, among others) are crucial for creating core stiffness as well as powering the hip extension and kipping motions that are fundamental to hard climbing. If you have a good strength coach to instruct you, consider adding two brief squatting and/or deadlifting sessions per week. (We're not talking a body building or powerlifting program—don't go there!) For those who are self-coaching, I recommend training with single-legged Pistol Squats, which you can perform during rest breaks at the climbing gym. An ass-to-grass pistol squat is the long term-goal, however, lack of strength, flexibility, and balance prevent most climbers from being able to do this. So instead, I recommend doing the pistol squat with a bench, box, or chair (~ 18 inches high) positioned behind you. Squat down until your rear end touches the box, then press back up. Extend your arms and free leg in front of you for balance, and concentrate on tracking your knee out over your foot (don't let it collapse inward). Do two or three sets of 10 reps each side. Lower/raise the bench height to increase/decrease difficulty.

Eric Hörst (pronounced 「hurst」), a former world-class climber, is a renowned coach and author of best-selling books such as Training for Climbing and Maximum Climbing. Learn more atwww.TrainingForClimbing.com. 
Smashing Plateaus: The Best Training Program for You Is One You Aren't Doing
上午3:56:00

Smashing Plateaus: The Best Training Program for You Is One You Aren't Doing

2015年1月27日星期二



Needless to introduce, here is the link I found of the internet. What a wonderful collection with an index pages so you can go through one by one. Enjoy climbers!

http://topfreeclimb.tv/best-of-2014/
Introducing "The Best Climbing Videos of 2014"
上午7:21:00

Introducing "The Best Climbing Videos of 2014"

2014年11月27日星期四

隨著IFSC攀岩世界盃難度賽Kranj站(斯洛文尼亞)的結束,2014年IFSC難度賽的全部分站賽也隨之全部結束。經過一年八站比賽的角逐,最終奧地利名將Jakob Schubert和韓國女將Jain Kim(金滋仁)分別摘得難度賽男女年度總冠軍。


2014攀岩世界盃難度賽男子年度前三甲

2014攀岩世界盃難度賽女子年度前三甲
在過去的5年,Jain Kim和Jakob Schubert堪稱世界盃賽中最好成績的運動員,前者先後3次摘得女子桂冠,而Jakob Schubert也是二次捧杯。

回顧2014年難度賽場,除了上述兩位這種始終保持佳績的頂尖高手外,也不乏黑馬殺出,像斯洛文尼亞的Domen Skofic(20歲),從2009年開始參加青少年比賽,2012年他是難度賽世界賽場上最優秀的攀岩少年,今年他更是在5項世界大賽中表現出色,其中包括世錦賽,最差的成績也是第四名。
2014 IFSC難度賽全部結束 Kim Jain 三登冠軍寶座
上午1:41:00

2014 IFSC難度賽全部結束 Kim Jain 三登冠軍寶座

2014年11月22日星期六

On 2014-11-19, I wasn't planing to climb anything hard, yet I went to Braemar Hill for outdoor sport climbing. I took the same old trail which led me to the base of crag, then I was just able to witness my friend sent her f7c+ route, called Rocky's Hollow Show.

She kindly asked me if I want to try it, well then, why not? After several top-ropping practices. I was already to try to send it if I could.

Then the most incredible thing happened, I did it! I managed to red point this route! I can't believe that my sweaty finger tips didn't fail on me when I needed it the most. It was such an intense feeling that I grabbed the smallest tips of that tiny hold and I managed to stick it! When I mean, over all, that I was able to sent this route within a day, was amazing!

I think I will remember this joy forever and it will help me push myself beyond the limit. 
Pure Happiness
上午7:42:00

Pure Happiness

2014年11月13日星期四

11月2日、TheNorthFace® / Black Diamond®麗江老君山傳統攀岩交流大會落下帷幕。來自全國各地的岩友與國際傳統攀岩高手們一起感受丹霞砂岩,展示了優雅刺激的岩壁芭蕾。繼2012年國內首次以傳統攀岩為主題的攀岩交流盛會在麗江老君山國家公園內成功舉行之後,今年已經迎來第三屆,在兩大品牌的推動下傳統攀岩這項運動在國內真正發展起來,而且每年岩友的參與關注都呈現遞增趨勢。
「保持傳統」是今年的主題口號

今年大會紀念T恤胸前的「保持傳統」正是我們的活動口號,「傳統」即傳統攀登。傳統攀登是指攀登人不借助器材只用肢體攀爬,而且自己邊攀登,邊放置器材保護自己的攀登方式。我國的傳統攀登歷史並不久遠,依靠自身的判斷解讀線路,以精準的操作攀升里程,與原始狀態的峭壁進行最本真的接觸!

對於很多岩友習慣於運動攀來說,傳統攀岩或許還是個陌生的概念。今年的傳統攀登交流大會依然以傳統攀岩為主題的,延伸傳統攀登領域各學科知識.回顧去年教學內容,標準寬度裂縫技巧、寬縫攀登技巧、多段攀登中保護站架設、及器械操作、傳統攀入門培訓等, 在上兩屆的教學基礎上,今年繼續提升了課程深度與廣度。

國際運動員Brittany Griffith正在教組教學

中國贊助運動員何川在傳授保護站設置技術與心得
國內傳統攀岩人群回溫
本屆活動中,國外傳統攀岩運動員導師逐漸從往屆的主角中脫離出來,國內傳統攀岩導師與參會岩友成為麗江老君山傳統攀岩交流大會的核心。在國內,90年代中後期開始有愛好者參與傳統攀登,但十幾年來,我國傳統攀登仍處於初級階段;攀爬人群增長遠遠落後於運動攀登和抱石人群;國內傳統攀岩愛好者經過這三年的磨練與沉澱更趨於成熟,參會岩友中不乏連續三年來此學習交流的隊員。此次,實際到報到參會岩友超出預期60%。

麗江老君山地區依然是中國境內傳統攀岩線路最集中、線路最豐富的地區,在國際傳統攀岩愛好者人群中知名度也越來越高,TheNorthFace® / Black Diamond®麗江老君山傳統攀岩交流大會期間還有來自韓國運動員團隊專程來此切磋交流。傳統攀岩這項運動也對當地少數民族文體建設帶來了推動,本屆活動中就有納西族小夥專程從麗江城區趕來學習傳統攀岩這項運動。今年的大會中還有一類特殊學員,他們只有十來歲,有的已經可以爬運動攀5.11的難度,有的已經體驗過傳統攀岩的線路,都是活動期間專程來到老君山學習傳統攀岩。

導師在做示範攀爬以求在實戰中教學

學員們也都細心觀察領悟老師們的一言一行
TheNorthFace® / Black Diamond®聯手為中外傳統攀岩愛好者搭建的交流平台,以幫助傳統攀岩愛好者們在積累和學習的過程中減少曲折,直線提升國內整體水平,減少安全隱患,吸引更多人體驗和投身傳統攀登。同時希望通過這一運動的發展帶動傳統攀登天然岩壁的開發。

分組體驗的學員

來自中國登山協會攀岩攀冰部的曹榮武教練在攀爬中
一天的攀登培訓結束後,晚上大會組委會還為廣告岩友準備了傈僳族特色的篝火晚會、Patty、啤酒、燒烤以及攀登分享會並且為參會岩友們準備了眾多獎品。

晚上導師Mike Dobie繼續和愛好者們交流經典傳統攀線路的和技術應用

傈僳族特色的篝火晚會
2014 雲南麗江老君山傳統攀岩交流大會
上午3:20:00

2014 雲南麗江老君山傳統攀岩交流大會

一年一度業界備受矚目的陽朔攀岩節於2014年10月31日至11月2日在陽朔舉行,作為中國最富盛名的攀岩地和擁有亞洲最完美岩壁的陽朔,2014 KAILAS陽朔攀岩節吸引了來自全世界各地的岩友來此親歷體驗。

TEAM KAILAS 集體亮相拉開序幕

抱石賽前的萬聖節Party
晚間的KAILAS抱石賽雲集眾多國內外頂級高手同台競技,場面緊張激烈堪稱世界級賽事。人稱指力王的王清華用強大的手指力量支撐整個身體上去,最後到達線路終點,比賽到最後澳大利亞最強抱石隊員James Kassay在攀爬最後一條線路時展示了超高難度動作讓現場觀眾都驚呆了,俄羅斯速攀冠軍Stanislav Kokorin雖手肘有扭傷,但是仍然堅持攀爬,不願放棄,現場觀眾不由得齊齊鼓掌鼓勵他,場面甚是感動。

運動員們來自世界各地,以不同的攀登技巧,不同的策略去攀爬同一條線路,現場岩友們得以領略運動員們的攀岩風采,為攀岩節奉上了一場精彩絕倫的比賽。 

夜間抱石賽現場

夜間抱石賽現場人氣爆滿

現場還設置了抽獎環節 速度賽世界記錄保持者鐘齊鑫在為岩友抽獎

速度賽世界記錄保持者鐘齊鑫也參加了抱石賽並以預賽4條線路全部完攀的成績晉級決賽 
最終因手臂拉傷中途退賽

全國首個錦標賽男子三料冠軍 本次抱石賽亞軍得主馬自達

國內首位9A完攀者 全國一流競技選手本次抱石賽第四名王清華

澳大利亞最強抱石隊員 男子抱石賽冠軍得主James Kassay
男子抱石賽決賽中,來自澳大利亞的KAILAS隊員James Kassay以2條2次的成績奪得冠軍,小將馬自達以2條5次的微弱劣勢屈居第二,Brendan Wlitchell 2條10次位居第三。非常可惜的是老將王清華以及鐘齊鑫,其中老將王清華在決賽3號線路中因被判犯規而與完攀失之交臂,最終因2號線路上嘗試次數過多而遺憾以2條11次滑落到第4名;而速度賽世界記錄保持者鐘齊鑫則因為在決賽1號線路的攀爬中右臂肌肉拉傷而遺憾退賽。

男子攀石決賽最終成績
女子方面,來自寶島台灣的岩友張寶穗以4條9次,完攀所有線路的成績奪得冠軍,來自四川成都的岩友帥琳琳以1條1次,3次得分點的成績位居第二,馬瑤和美國岩友Kate Sabo並列第三名,其中德國岩友Saskia Veldenze因為未按時進入隔離區,而遺憾的未被採錄成績,Saskia獲得大賽組委會的批准還是進行了比賽,並且完攀了2條線路。


女子組冠軍得主來自台灣的岩友張寶穗

女子抱石賽亞軍得主來自四川的岩友帥琳琳

女子攀石決賽最終成績
一貫致力推動與普及攀岩運動的KAILAS品牌一如既往的支持陽朔攀岩節,陽朔攀岩節為來自世界各地的攀岩愛好者提供了一個最佳的交流、溝通平台,讓廣大岩友不僅目睹了陽朔攀岩的極大普及,也領略了中外岩友的不同攀登風格,還看到了中國攀岩運動的巨大活力和美好前景。

TEAM KAILAS成員接受媒體採訪

JAMES KASSAY為初學者講解攀岩技巧

世界速度記錄保持者鐘齊鑫和俄羅斯速攀冠軍Stanislav Kokorin現場交流攀爬技術

酒瓶山現場三位攀岩明星為岩友做攀登指導 
左起鐘齊鑫、
Stanislav Kokorin、JAMES KASSAY
活動第一天開幕就是給力的"TEAM KAILAS"國內外大牛帶你攀爬經典路線,近距離與高手互動交流。澳洲最強攀石運動員JAMES KASSAY為初學者講解攀岩技巧,世界速度攀岩組合-世界速度記錄保持者鐘齊鑫和俄羅斯速攀冠軍Stanislav Kokorin現場為大家演示攀爬,讓岩友們領略國內外運動員攀爬風格的不同,隨後還帶領了初學者進行攀爬。


福利岩場

攀岩節的培訓活動從低到高,覆蓋全部岩友的需求。為了能夠讓零基礎的准愛好者們也能體驗"登頂",主辦方為初學者、零基礎的玩家開了很多初級線路,使陽朔的線路更加完整,任何級別的岩友都能找到適合自己的線路,感受體驗不同的地貌環境的攀岩樂趣。專業的岩友則可以學習到"干攀" "開線"等具有專業性的培訓活動。在干攀活動時,領攀登山學校校長曾山還親自教授、指導了現場的愛好者們一些基本的干攀技術,讓大家受益匪淺。

著名登山家Jon Otto在為現場岩友講授干攀(Dry Tooling)知識
歐洲青年攀岩冠軍Sebastian Halanke(德國)領銜國際頂尖攀岩大咖嘉賓團齊聚陽朔攀岩節,呈現月亮山難度挑戰表演。


高空扁帶


花式扁帶體驗

較之往年,今年的陽朔攀岩節將更加豐富。本屆增加了活動分會場,新老岩場均對岩友們開放。體驗自然岩壁樂趣的紅點有獎攀爬、花式扁帶體驗、刺激的高空扁帶體驗和挑戰表演。


十年十人代表(其中兩名外國人士為到場)

陽朔作為攀岩勝地,當地攀岩文化的沉澱積累離不開一代岩者們的努力與付出。評選出的十年十人,不僅僅是在講述他們在陽朔攀岩經歷成長的10年,更是10年陽朔攀岩文化發展的映射。

一樣的陽朔,不一樣的攀岩節!KAILAS陽朔攀岩節就要讓廣大岩友及戶外愛好者在攀岩的同時,也能夠用其它戶外的視角感受一個全新的陽朔並熱愛戶外生活。我們明年見!
2014 KAILAS 陽朔攀岩節 頂級高手齊聚國際攀岩盛會
上午3:18:00

2014 KAILAS 陽朔攀岩節 頂級高手齊聚國際攀岩盛會